October 7, 2012

Hanoi and Tam Coc, Vietnam (October, 2012)

We left paradise (DaNang) and took a flight to Hanoi.  We booked 2 nights at the Sheraton Hanoi for 3,000 SPG points per night and used 1,500 SPG points to upgrade to Club rooms with free breakfast, canapés from 5-7pm, and free drinks in the lounge during the day.  Unfortunately, we did not have enough time to make our way to Halong Bay (perhaps on a future trip).

We headed to the "Old Quarter" in the afternoon and spent time wandering the streets, trying weird types of food, and saying "No" to the hawkers.  We then headed back to the hotel and spent some family time at the pool at night before heading to bed.  The pool was nothing special, but the kids get so excited for any pool.

The next day we got up early and headed out on our full day journey to Tam Coc, which they tell us means "three caves" in Vietnamese.  Once we got outside of Hanoi, the scenery started to change drastically.  We soon found ourselves in a strange land where huge limestone rocks and cliffs with all kinds of vegetation growing on them surrounded us on all sides.  It was an overcast day and there was a mist that was like a thin veil that was weaving in and out of the limestone cliffs.

We stopped for lunch at a local restaurant and then headed to the Buddhist temple that was situated in between the cliffs.  We wandered around for a bit, then headed towards the river.

On the river, we were assigned our rowboats and guides.  The guys that paddle the rowboats do it entirely with their feet and are kicked back as if they are relaxing.  True to the translation, we were paddled through 3 caves.  They were so low in some parts that we had to duck down in order to avoid hitting our heads on the top of the cavern.  There really aren't many words to describe the scenery...it was truly beautiful.

 The pool at the Sheraton Hanoi.
 Bedtime in our hotel room.
We took an hour long rickshaw ride through the Old Quarter of Hanoi after we were exhausted from wandering the streets
 Wandering through the Old Quarter.
 Tam Coc has some incredible scenery.
Endless limestone cliffs covered in moss and greenery are all over the area.  There is an old Buddhist temple in the middle of the cliffs.


Tam Coc (translation: 3 caves)...We went down a river amidst the limestone cliffs and went through 3 caves.
 Ryder, enjoying the scenery.


 These guides paddle you up and down the river with their feet.  Amazing coordination.


We went to the water puppet show...allegedly a must see in Vietnam.  No comment.

October 5, 2012

Da Nang and Hoi An, Vietnam (October, 2012)

Our flight on Jetstar Airways from Ho Chi Minh City ("HCMC") to Da Nang was seamless and we arrived around 10:00pm and took a cab to the Hyatt Regency Da Nang, where we would spend the next 3 nights.  We had booked a suite for 18,000 Hyatt Gold Passport points per night (54,000 total) which included buffet breakfast, afternoon appetizers, and drinks during the day.  The room was perfect for our family with a separate master bedroom and tons of space for the kids.  There was a giant jacuzzi tub that the kids thoroughly enjoyed.


We headed into Hoi An on the first shuttle at 10:00 am the next morning and quickly found a tailor (or should I say the tailor found us) to make the kids some shoes.  This was one of the main things we wanted to do in Vietnam.  The tailors of Hoi An are well known and we had been promising the kids that they could design their own pair of shoes.  After some bartering the kids had picked fabric, colors, and with a little help from Eliza a shoe design.  The design was similar to the 'Vans' brand that you would get in the US.  Eliza ordered a couple pairs of sandals as well.  We dropped our laundry off to some random lady for $2/kg.

We bought the kids some Vietnamese pijamas and we even saw a fight (2 Vietnamese guys going at it about 10 feet in front of us while we were wandering the streets in the middle of the day).  We had some lunch (the beef Pho was delicious) and headed back to the hotel to enjoy the pool and beach.

The beach was incredible...very clean.  The sunset just made you feel peaceful and relaxed.  Cody could have stayed in Da Nang for a week, he loved the hotel and the beach.  The sunset and the waves breaking and churning up the sand made the water look red-orange.  The weather was awesome and we pretty much had the place to ourselves.  The pools at the Hyatt were expansive with tons of shallow areas where the kids could run around.  The kids loved it.

We were going to head to the Marble Mountains, but after reading the tripadvisor.com reviews and just wanting to relax a bit (we have been on the move for a while), we decided to just chill out at the hotel.

The next morning after breakfast we dropped the kids off at Camp Hyatt and went into Hoi An alone.  We got some Northface gear (9 backpacks, 3 ski coats) for amazing prices.  This place is a gold mine.

Went back to the hotel for more beach and pool with the kids and hung out at the club talking with Shanghai expats from Denmark, Australia and England.

Off to Hanoi at 10am the next morning.













October 2, 2012

Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong River Delta, Vietnam (October, 2012)

After the 1 hour 45 minute Tiger Airways flight from Singapore ($51.90 USD/person), we arrived in Ho Chi Minh City around 8:30am.  It took us a while to get through the immigration process since we had neglected to bring passport photos with us for the pre-arranged visas (basically, you get online, request that someone arrange for you to pick up visas in the airport when you arrive, pay them ~$7USD for each visa, and hope that the visas will be waiting for you in the airport when you arrive).  I paid one of the agents $20AUD to take our pictures and work it out.  We had to pay an additional ~$27USD each for our Vietnam visas.



We had arranged for a car and driver to pick us up from the airport and accompany us all day for 1.2 million Vietnam Dong (~$60).  Our first stop was the Cu Chi tunnels, about an hour and a half outside Ho Chi Minh City.  These were the tunnels that the Vietnamese soldiers and civilians pretty much lived in for the duration of the Vietnam War.  They are located literally in the middle of dense vegetation and trees.

The tourist attraction is run by the Vietnamese and there is a somewhat different spin on how and why everything went down with respect to the war.  The Americans were constantly referred to as the invaders or opposition and the view is that Vietnam ultimately outlasted and survived the attack.  We watched the anti-American propaganda films until we got bored with the black and white and low-quality sound, then we checked out the various different traps that the Vietnamese soldiers used, and were able to get a general feel for what life must have been like for the soldiers.  We got to walk through the tunnels and we even bought some of the sandals made out of used tires (the Vietnamese were very resourceful, using everything they came across including American tanks and un-detonated bombs). 


We ate some Yucca dipped in peanut sauce (delicious) and huddled beneath the makeshift tents to hide from the rain, which by that time was pouring down.  The day started off sunny, but within 2 hours we felt like we were in a scene from one of the Vietnam War movies, crawling through bogs and mud with the rain coming at you from all directions (sideways even).  We got tired of waiting beneath the tent (we had places to be, after all), so we braved the rain and made our way to the car.  We then stopped for some Vietnamese food at the local restaurant.  Surprisingly, the kids ate it all.





On the way home we stopped at the supermarket to pick up some snacks and drinks for the next couple days and made our way back to our hotel, the Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers where we had booked one night in a club room (including free drinks in the lounge all day long, free canapés from 5-7pm and free buffet breakfast) for 11,000 SPG points.  We hit the pool, as we are accustomed to do since the kids can't seem to enjoy anything else in a place until they've had a swim in the hotel pool (doesn't matter how crappy the pool is), had some dinner, and at around 7pm grabbed a cab to go to the Ho Chi Minh City Circus ($20USD for the whole family). Upon arrival at the circus, we quickly realized that we were going to be the odd ones out and this was no tourist attraction, rather, it was a local circus.  There were hundreds of local Vietnamese families packed into a makeshift outdoor auditorium.  It was school holidays for Vietnam, so there were hundreds of Vietnamese children around just loving every minute of the entertainment.  It was an incredibly special experience for us to witness this...one of the highlights of the entire trip.

The circus was pretty amazing, although we didn't understand a word of it, and, as far as we knew, were the only non-Vietnamese people in the audience.  Highlights included a black bear riding a bicycle and a moped, monkeys and dogs doing all kinds of tricks, tight rope high wire stunts, and some pretty incredible acrobatics.  There was some serious talent in this circus and the courage and bravery by some of the performers was amazing.





The next morning we had our free massive buffet breakfast in the hotel then headed off for our 2 day, 1 night private tour of the Mekong River Delta which was booked through TNK Travel at a price of 7.35 million Vietnam Dong (~$350USD) for the 6 of us.  We are so glad we did this tour.  This defined our visit to southern Vietnam.  I could not even imagine touring this area of the world without doing something similar to what we did.



After approximately 2 hours on our private bus (private was the way to go as we have young children that make a lot of noise), we stopped at My Tho to visit a pagoda (buddhist temple).  It was pouring down rain and we bought some ponchos and traditional Vietnamese hats to attempt to keep dry (it didn't really work, but we felt pretty awesome wearing around our circular pointy top hats).



We then boarded a boat and headed across the river for lunch (I think it was called Unicorn Island?).  Lunch was great and consisted of fried rice, shrimp, chicken dishes, spring rolls, etc.  We even convinced both Ryder and Sawyer to eat the shrimp (at least a bite).



We got back on the boat and were taken to Ben Tre where we were able to see a few cottage industries including coconut candy, honey tea, and lotion...we even got to put a python around our neck and play with it for a bit.






We then jumped on small rowboats (sampans) and rowers took us up narrow canals to our next destination.  We got to try all kinds of fruit (dragon fruit, papaya, mango, watermelon with salt) and listen to traditional Vietnamese music.  We were then taken by bus/boat to our homestay/bungalow.  We took off our shoes and wandered through the rice paddies.  We didn't get far because it was muddy and slippery.

The bungalow had 2 queen size mattresses with mosquito nets around them.  We had 1 rotating fan, and no air conditioning.  It was a hot, sweaty, uncomfortable night, and a massive deviation from the 5-star treatment we had received at the Marina Bay Sands in Singapore and Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers in HCMC.  The kids didn't have any problem with it.  It took them a while to get the overstimulation of sights, smells, and sounds that we had taken in out of their minds so they could get to sleep.







Before bed, we helped make some spring rolls and had dinner before strolling through the village.  There were no street lights and the road was barely wide enough for a small vehicle.  Most vehicular traffic was on mopeds.  It was pitch black, you could hardly see 40 feet in front of you.  We bought some candy at a local store (front of someone's house) and shared with the Vietnamese children.  The kids were shocked that we bought candy just to turn around and give it to them...they kept looking at their parents as if to ask "can I really eat this?"  Cody sabotaged a game of cards and showed some card tricks to some of the men.  They couldn't figure any of them out and we disappeared into the darkness leaving them with the mysteries of card magic.  We thought we were cool.  We went to bed pretty early as there was not much to do once the sun was down.

We arose early for breakfast (jam on bread) and got back on our boat and headed to the Cai Rang floating markets.

We then stopped off at a rice paper factory and a plantation growing jackfruit, dragon fruit, and a bunch of other types of exotic fruit.  We stopped in Can Tho and bought a big bag of fruit we had never tried before (custard apple, rambleton, etc.).




Next we made our way back to Ho Chi Minh City on the bus (~3 hours) to catch our flight to our next destination in Vietnam, DaNang.